Thoughts on what is causing this?
About two months ago, the cold end extruders on my OGB failed, causing them to drop the hot ends, which then crashed with my prints and caused the belts to skip, etc.
I'm wondering is perhaps either the belts stretched during that time, as it seems like the printer is a lot more susceptible to jumping teeth mid-print resulting in misalignment such as the one shown below.

The odd thing about that though is that the belt doesn't seem overly loose. Guess I need to dig up the info on belt tensioning and see if that helps...
The next thing that seems odd is the amount of really fine strings that I am getting, and that they seem to be discolored as you can see below. I'm using the default OGB profile with the exception of having slowed the default print speed to 2800 mm/minute which got rid of the zits I had previously. Default settings for the "Higher Resolution - Raft" - .4 mm nozzle, default support and infill settings, default retraction distance, speed and temperature, etc.

It's like its not retracting enough during head movements, but the odd thing is that it didn't seem to do that before.
Filament is the silver PLA supplied by re3D.
I guess I will play with maybe dropping the temp 5 degrees and then increasing the retraction distance by 1 mm per the comments here https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/#stringing-or-oozing
Hum... interesting. That page also talks about movement speed being too low as a possible cause... and
Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
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The hot end is leaking and causing the stringing. It is also causing small droplets of plastic to drip on the surface and catch the nozzle to make the print shift. Please contact support@re3d.org for instruction on stopping the leak.
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Yes, that appears to be what is going on...


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The nozzle and the thermal tube should be tightened to each other using about 24in*lb of torque to prevent leaking. Since there is leaking plastic it would be best to do the torquing at print temperature. Caution: the nozzle will break easily if too much force is applied.
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Just as a follow-up, Matthew was spot on. I removed the heater and temperature probe from the heater block, and removed the block from the print head and took it out to my shop. Heated it with a torch to burn off all of the PLA that had accumulated on it, and then reassembled everything. Brought the block up to temp and then tightened the nozzle against the thermal tube and the printer is working like a charm again.
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I am glad to hear that you are back up and running with no more leaks!
Happy Printing
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