Removing/Reinstalling the Print Bed

Removing the Bed

Overview

There are several reasons you may need to remove the bed from your Gigabot—whether it's for maintenance, heater pad replacement, troubleshooting potential warping, or sending it in to re:3D for inspection. Whatever the reason, it's important to follow proper steps to ensure both your safety and the protection of your machine components.

The instructions below will guide you through safely removing the bed, preserving all necessary hardware, and preparing it for either service or reinstallation. If you have any questions during the process, our team is always here to support you at [e-mail].

Tools Needed for Removal:

• 8mm wrench 
• Needle-nose pliers or flush snips 
• 2.5mm hex key

Steps for Removing the Bed:

1. Disconnect the thermocouple, ground cable, and heater cartridge.

 

IMAGE 1.A: Connections from the Heater Pad

These wires are connected at the rear of the bed inside of the panduit mounted on the extrusion underneath the rear of the bed (IMAGE 1.A).  Unplug/unscrew the following connections:

              Grounding Wire                                  Thermocouple                                Heater Cartridge     

• Grounding wire - Use the 2.5 mm to remove the M3x8 SHCS and M3 washer from the grounding wire first
• Thermocouple - Unplug this connection 
  • Note: This varies between bed plate models; You may instead need to use a 2.5mm to remove the M3x8 SHCS and M3 washer that is securing the thermocouple to the bed plate in order to completely remove it
  • 
• Heater cartridge(s) - Unplug this connection
  
  

2. Remove the four bolts securing the bed to the linear rails.
Use an 8mm wrench to remove the bolts. While doing this, carefully use needle-nose pliers or snips to hold the M5x45 Flathead screws (located underneath the springs) in place to prevent them from turning as you loosen the bolts. (See IMAGE 2.A)

IMPORTANT NOTE: As you remove the bolts, carefully set aside all loose nuts, springs, and washers. You’ll need these for reassembly later.

IMAGE 2.A.:Bed locknut and spring (left); Snips gripping the M5x45 Flathead screw underneath the spring (right)

3. Lower the bed by (at minimum) 200 mm.
Lowering the bed provides better access to the rear connections and makes it easier to remove the bed. Keeping the bed too high can increase the risk of accidentally bumping it into the extruders from below while lifting it out
     

4. Lift the bed out of the mounting brackets.
Once all wires are unplugged, safely and carefully lift the bed straight up and out of the L-shaped brackets attached to the bed trolley extrusions.

5. Set the bed aside, surface-side down.
The screws protrude from the bottom, so placing it surface-side down will prevent damage and keep the bed stable (see IMAGE 5.A). If you plan to remove the heater pad, be sure to note which side of the bed is the front and which is the back to ensure proper reinstallation.

IMAGE 5.A: Removed bed positioned PrintinZ face down

Reinstalling the Bed

Once you are ready to reinstall your bed, follow these steps to reinstall it safely and correctly:

Tools & Materials Needed for Reinstallation:

• 8mm wrench
• Needle-nose pliers or flush snips 
• New M4 lock nuts
• PTFE-based grease 
• Z-setter Leveling Tool (For recalibrating bed level after installation)

Steps for Reinstallation of the Bed:

1. Prepare the mounting hardware.
We recommend using new nuts during reinstallation. Over time, the original lock nuts can lose their grip, especially after multiple installations or exposure to heat and vibration. (See IMAGE 1.B) 

 IMAGE 1.B.: Older lock nut compared to newer lock nut

Fresh hardware ensures a secure fit and reliable leveling going forward. Additionally, apply a light layer of grease to the bolt threads. This helps reduce friction and makes future adjustments easier.

2. Position the bed in the L-shaped brackets.
Carefully lower the bed back into the L-shaped mounting brackets on the bed trolley extrusions. Ensure the correct orientation by matching the front and back of the bed to their original positions—especially if the heater pad was removed or replaced.

3. Reconnect the rear wiring.
Reconnect the grounding wire using the M3x8 SHCS and the M3 washer you previously set aside. Then, plug in the thermocouple and heater cartridge(s), making sure all connectors are fully seated and securely fastened.

4. Raise the bed into place.
Lift the bed up to align it with the linear rail mounting points.

5. Reinstall the springs and bolts.
Place the springs, washers, and new nuts back in their proper order. Use an 8mm wrench to tighten the bolts while holding the hex-head screws underneath (below the springs) with needle-nose pliers or snips to prevent them from turning.

IMPORTANT NOTE: Be careful not to overtighten—allow for some spring compression to retain bed leveling capability. If the springs are fully compressed (i.e., overtightened), they lose this "give," so turning the leveling knobs later won’t effectively change the bed height — the bed becomes rigid and unadjustable. We recommend having at least 3-4 threads exposed on the screw (See IMAGE 5.B.)

IMAGE 5.B.: Incorrect spring and locknut placement (left); Correct spring and locknut placement (right)

6. Perform bed leveling.
Once everything is secured and plugged in, re-level your bed to ensure the print surface is properly aligned and ready for your next print.