Troubleshooting Electrical System for Gigabot Resets

When the Gigabot resets during the middle of the print and you progress is lost, it is an indication that there may be a short-circuit in the wiring. Make sure you have already gone through the steps in the article Gigabot Stops Mid-Print and is Unresponsive, then follow these steps to check for electrical damage, faulty connection, or locating the branch of the electrical system that is causing the reset:

Finding faulty wiring connections:

1. Turn off the Gigabot and unplug it from the outlet
2. Check each motor (there are 6 for single extruder printers and 7 for dual extruder printers) to make sure that the plug is fully inserted and that there is no scorch mark on the plug
3. Open the electrical box using a large flathead screw driver or coin
4. Check that each terminal is securely fastened by using a screwdriver to check that they are tight
5. Check that each wire is plugged into the appropriate location by referencing the Electrical Wiring Diagrams. You may also email a few photos of your box to [e-mail] if you need assistance with this step.
6. Reformat your SD card to FAT32 and then try the print again
7. Try a different SD card that has been reformatted to FAT 32 and then try the print again
8. Run the print using the USB cable

Test prints for isolating faulty circuit:

The most common causes of the printer resetting are short circuits in the fan wires, head cable, and heater cartridges. A majority of the print resetting cases are solved by replacing these components, so we recommend you replace these parts one at a time to see if the resetting is fixed. If after these replacements the bot is still resetting, you will need to move on to finding which component is causing the reset by following these instructions:

1. Turn on the Gigabot, then use the Viki to heat up the hot ends to 180C
2. Lower the bed to be about 2 inches from the nozzle.
3. Remove the filament from both hot ends
4. Set the hot ends to cool back down
5. Once the hot ends are below 50C, turn off the Gigabot and unplug it from the outlet
6. Unplug the wires from the X axis motor
7. Plug in and turn on, then run the 24 hour test print for your printer below: **As stated in step 3, do not use filament**
   1. GB3+ with v4.2.X: Link
   2. GB3 and GB3+ with v4.1.3 or v4.1.5: Link
   3. GB2 with J-head: Link
   4. GB2 with All-Metal Hot end: Link
   5. **Note: The printer will not be moving in all axes during these tests purposefully, so do not stop the print if the bed is not lowering or the trolley is just moving back and forth**
8. If the printer resets during the print:
   1. Record how long the print lasted and where the trolley was when it failed
   2. Open the electrical box and remove the cooling duct
   3. Reinstall the motor wires making sure to plug them back into the original spots. Look at the label on the cable and reference your wiring diagram if you need assistance: Link to Wiring Diagrams
   4. Repeat steps 8-11 for the other motors in the following order: 
      •  
        • Y motors
        • Z motors
        • Extruder motors
9. If the printer completes the 24 hour print, try the 3 day test print for your printer below:
   1. GB3+ with v4.2.X: Link
   2. GB3 and GB3+ with v4.1.3 or v4.1.5: Link
   3. GB2 with J-head: Link
   4. GB2 with All-Metal Hot end: Link
10. If the printer completes the 3 day test print, then replace the component of that system and try the 24 hour and 3 day prints to confirm it is fixed.
11. If the printer is still resetting after the tests, move on to testing the motor cables
    1. Make sure the hot ends are below 50C, then turn off the Gigabot and unplug the Gigabot's power cord.
    2. Open the electrical box using a large flathead screw driver or coin
    3. Remove the electrical box cooling duct according to these instructions: Removing and Installing the Cooling Duct
12. Disconnect the X-Axis motor cable by either unplugging the pins or unscrewing the terminal blocks shown below:

    1. Azteeg X3 Pro:

       ​​

    2. Azteeg X3 V2:

       

13. Use electrical tape to cover the metal ends of wire if you have the screw terminal block style of connectors
14. Reinstall the cooling duct, then close and latch the electrical box
15. Run the 24 hour test print for your machine
16. If the test print fails, reinstall the motor wires and move on to the next motor wire in the system
    1. Y motor cables
    2. Z motor cables
    3. Extruder motor cables
17. If the printer is still resetting after the tests, we can set up the repair of your printer or [e-mail] can give you the steps to replace the following:

• X,Y,Z, and Extruder motor drivers
• Fuse system
  • Fuse
  • Fuse Block
  • Fuse Input Wire
  • Fuse Output Wire
• Viki LCD Screen and cable
• LED Strip
• LED Strip wire
• Power Supply
• Daughterboard and wires
• Azteeg Control Board

Questions or concerns? Reach out to our support team at support@re:3D.org or open a support ticket.